03
Mar
2011
jloomis

Kalalau Trail to Hanakapi'ai Falls, Kauai

On Tuesday the sun was shining and we were up early (5 AM) securing hiking permits for our June Half Dome hike in Yosemite. This was our second day on vacation with my parents and grandpa. Since we had an early start, we decided it would be a great day to hike to Hanakapi'ai Falls on the beautiful Hawaiian island of Kauai. The 8-mile round-trip hike starts at the end of highway 560 on the Northern part of Kauai. The trail becomes dangerous and nearly impassable during heavy rains, so the sunny weather worked in our favor. This hike is not for the faint of heart, as the steep terrain, narrow, rocky trail, muddy conditions, and numerous stream crossings make this a strenuous hike.

The rocky Kalalau trail begins by climbing to the Southwest. The trailhead signs indicate the 4 mile (one-way) trip to Hanakapi'ai Beach takes 2-4 hours. Be sure to allow a whole day for the hike if you are staying on the Southern part of the island to allow for island traffic. We arrived at the trailhead around 9 AM and the parking lot was nearly full. Luckily we snagged one of the last two spots.

Mom and Grandpa at Kalalau Trailhead     Kalalau Trail on the Hawaiian Island of Kauai

After hiking uphill for about a quarter of a mile, Ke'e Beach came into view. It's one of the best places to snorkel on Kauai and was packed with people when we hiked back later in the day.

View of Ocean from Kalalau Trail     Wet and Muddy Kalalau Trail

At the half mile mark, the trail affords some beautiful vistas of the coast. Katie and I snapped few photographs while we let my mom and grandpa catch up. They did a great job on this hike even with the quick pace we set.

Katie Hiking Kalalau Trail     Jason Hiking Kalalau Trail

The vegetation and views on the first two miles of the trail are absolutely spectacular. After about one mile, the trail begins its steep descent to the ocean below.

Lush Vegetation on Kauai     Cliffs Towering Above the Pacific Ocean
Switchbacks up the Mountain     Cliffs

At the two mile mark, the trail arrives at Hanakapi'ai Beach. This is also marks the first stream crossing which can be done with dry feet if one carefully hops from boulder to boulder (provided it hasn't been raining much). The beach is covered in rocks this time of year (winter), but becomes a sandy beach in the summer. There is a sign near the beach that reads, "DO NOT GO NEAR THE WATER, UNSEEN CURRENTS HAVE KILLED 92+ VISITORS". The number of visitors was indicated by hash marks, so who knows if it is accurate or not. In any case the surf appeared extremely rough and no one ventured in the water.

Cave Near Hanakapi'ai Beach     Jason and Katie on Hanakapi'ai Beach

The next two miles of the trail begin climbing inland to the South, away from the coast. It became increasingly muddy and narrow as we continued forward. We passed a couple who turned back after one too many falls in the mud. The trail is cut into the side of the canyon, so a fall here can be disastrous. We passed several bamboo forests where I was able to find a sturdy hiking stick to help keep me upright. At this point, both Katie and I wished we had brought along our trekking poles. Mom and Grandpa were more prepared for this trail as they had seen it several years back. They both brought trekking poles and wouldn't consider hiking this trail without them.

On the Way to Hanakapi'ai Falls     Bamboo Forest

The trail crosses the Hanakapi'ai Stream several more times on the way to the falls. Grandpa fell in during the first stream crossing, so he just walked through the river from that point on. Mom, Katie, and I managed to skip from boulder to boulder without getting wet on every crossing. Grandpa was kind enough to stay in the river and help Katie and Mom through a few particularly treacherous spots. Approximately one mile from the beach, we finally had our first glimpse of the falls.

Katie Crossing Small Stream     First Glimpse of Hanakapi'ai Falls
Hanakapi'ai Stream     Hanakapi'ai Canyon

There were several rapids and small waterfalls along the stream near the trail. As we progressed closer to Hanakapi'ai Falls, we were able to observe the sheer cliffs the falls had cut through. There is so much rain in this area that plants are able to take hold on the vertical cliffs.

Small Waterfall     Cliffs of Hanakapi'ai Falls

Many flowers are present along the trail. Kauai is home to the rainiest point in the world, averaging over 425 inches annually near the summit of Waiale'ale. The rain and lush tropical climate allow a myriad of plants to blanket the island.

Wild Orchids     Wild Impatients

After about 3 hours, we finally made it to the base of the Hanakapi'ai Falls. This visible part of the falls (the last tier) is a 410 foot drop.
The total drop of the falls could be greater than 1,600 feet, but is not visible from the trail. Mom and Grandpa were pretty tired by this point and worried about the return hike. We found a spot within the shadow of the falls to enjoy lunch and rest our weary feet. The wind coupled with the mist from the falls made the temperature almost cold wearing only shorts and t-shirts.

Hanakapi'ai Falls     Grandpa, Katie, and Mom in front of Hanakapi'ai Falls

We were prepared for a swim in the large pool below the falls, but decided it would be better to head back sooner than later. There were several other people at the falls, but no one was swimming while we were there. After our quick lunch, we turned around and headed back down the trail.

Bottom of Hanakapi'ai Falls     Top of Hanakapi'ai Falls
Jason, Katie, Mom, and Grandpa by Hanakapi'ai Falls     Muddy Shoes

The return trip was tough for Mom and Grandpa as fatigue set in coupled with the increasingly muddy conditions from the rain. We still managed to make it back safely in about three hours. Grandpa had a few more falls on the hike back, but landed gracefully each time with a smile on his face. It so amazing to be able to hike with three generations of family. Grandpa is 82 years old and still has many more hikes left to enjoy. We felt blessed to share such a beautiful one with him.

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Disclaimer: You are responsible for informing yourself of the hazards of backcountry travel and taking the necessary precautions. Loomis Adventures may not be held liable.